Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Jacquard & Indian Textile Industry

India's design contributions are widely recognised for intricately patterned traditional fabrics that were woven on looms set-up with elaborate jala arrangements. A vast range of brocades from different periods of history exemplify the dexterity of weavers. Such fabrics were put to use for variety of purposes such as apparels, upholsteries, drapes, accessories and so on. The range is enormous in terms of use of design elements and diverse in techniques and materials used. Such fabrics and their inherent characteristics continue to inspire mordern designers in shaping new influences on our modern lifestyles.

Though the technology of jala is attributed to have originated in China for weaving patterned silk fabrics, the active trade links between Bengal and Coromandel (or Cholamandal) and China were quick to facilitate the introduction of jala weaving t0 Indian weavers much before the begining of Christian era. Major contribution of India to this technology lies in the manners and styles in which this technology was adopted on Indian handlooms in different regions. Very simple to most complex forms of jala set-ups were explored. Invention of mechanical jacquard was undoubtedly inpired from the principles of Indian jala and exquisite brocades.

Post industrialisation, the mechanical jacquard has increasingly replaced the traditional system of jala weaving. There are fewer weavers in age-old weaving centres who now use elaborate jala. However simplified forms of jala can still be found in use alongwith mechanical jacquard on handlooms. The ways of combining the two technologies is intriguing. Powerloom industry producing jacquards fabrics increasingly uses more sophisticated electronic jacquards. Therefore by virtue of availablity of the range of technology in this area, India now offers a wide range of qualities and designs in the range of jacquard fabrics.

This blog is dedicated to bring up a range of features of Indian range of jacquard fabrics. Numerous innovative design dimensions contributed by design students, teachers, weavers, professionals and the experts within Indian textile industry are going to be featured in the future posts and comments.